Trip Itinerary
Frederick Sound
While we have a carefully planned schedule, each trip may differ slightly, depending upon wind and tides, weather conditions, wildlife viewing opportunities, and the goals of participants. Plan to arrive in Juneau, Alaska on a regularly scheduled Alaska Airlines flight, at least one day prior to our departure. We will provide you with a list of accommodations, including Pearson's Pond Luxury Inn.
Day 1: Our journey begins with an orientation and preview of our nine-day sailing adventure, at 8:00 a.m. at Douglas Harbor. The crew will welcome you at the dock, familiarize you with your quarters aboard the Kirsten Anne, and show you where to stow your gear. We'll quickly settle into our cabins, take a tour of the beautiful vessel, and begin our journey.
This morning we embark into the heart of the Inside Passage. We'll have ample opportunity to hike along the beaches, kayak and explore scenic coves, and photograph whales, marine mammals, birds, and other wildlife. Traveling by sailboat, in kayaks, and on foot gives us a closer view of this elaborate ecosystem, and we hope to see brown and black bears.
We'll head south through Stephens Passage, and watch for whales, sea lions, dall porpoises, orcas, and sea birds. Dinner is aboard the Kirsten Anne, and our evening anchorage provides a great opportunity for a beautiful sunset.
Frederick Sound
Day 2: After an early breakfast, we depart for our short cruise into the Tracy Arm, a narrow fjord that twists and turns through towering mountains. Massive glaciers carved their way through the coastal mountains, over the course of thousands of years. Waterfalls drop thousands of feet off the granite mountains, and sapphire blue icebergs serenely float by in the emerald green water. North Sawyer Glacier provides us with an exciting opportunity to explore by kayak and skiff (if the ice pack allows) from a protected anchorage. Then we'll continue to South Sawyer Glacier, at the ice-choked end of the fjord. Extraordinarily blue and beautiful, this glacier is quite famous for its active calving, and we’ll witness gigantic chunks of ice break away from the face of the glacier.
In the early afternoon, we'll reverse directions. Our destination this evening is a small cove, nestled safely inside of Holcomb Bay. Wildlife abounds throughout the area, and it's possible to view most of the wildlife Alaska has to offer, including bears, dall sheep, mountain goats, whales and harbor seals. The evening light is beautiful, as we dodge icebergs, and wind our way back down Tracy Arm, and into the bay.
Outer Coast
Day 3: We have planned our day to make the slack tide across Wood Spit and into Endicott Arm. Kirsten Anne is underway in the early morning hours. Along the way we will be alert for drifting icebergs, as well as humpback and Orca whale sightings. We are bound for Sanford Cove, near a group of small islands called the Sumdum Islands.
Sanford Cove is the near the abandoned site of Sumdum. Little is left of the town, other than a few pilings. This is prime salmon-spawning habitat, which lures brown bears to the creeks and rivers in the area. We hike along the banks of tiny Sanford Creek, through an old growth spruce and hemlock forest, to a stunning waterfall, illuminated by the soft morning light in a remarkable grotto of ferns and mosses.
It's only a short run to Fords Terror, one of the most spectacular anchorages in Southeast Alaska. There are many places to explore by kayak. Surrounded by 5,000-foot granite faces, we marvel at the mist clinging to the precipices. Today we will make our way through the tidal rapids (at slack water, of course) into the majestic and stunning inner fjord. We explore the spectacular fjord, accessible only through a narrow passage. Rushing tidal currents and whirlpools prevent us from entering (and exiting) when the tide flows in and out. We must wait for slack water to enter this paradise.
We'll cautiously cruise through Ford's Terror, and into a T-shaped fjord. The evening light is beautiful, as we slowly wind our way into the fjord. Once again, we are in a vertical world of granite cliffs and glacier-carved cirques. Dozens of waterfalls cascade down their slopes, emptying into the turquoise waters of the fjord. Our evening anchorage is near a delightful waterfall. Black bears often visit the area, grazing on the abundance of berries in the meadows, and fishing for salmon in the stream.
Sanford Cove
Day 4: After a relaxed breakfast, Kirsten Anne is underway once again. We have timed our departure to make the slack tide across Ford's Terror. As we cruise up Endicott Arm, we dodge blue and white sculpted icebergs that float by, becoming larger and more plentiful as we near the head of the fjord. Seals and porpoises are common on the water, while above us mountain goats and bears can be seen on the fjord walls. Our relaxing boat ride takes us to the face of the Dawes Glacier.
We will linger at the face of the glacier, and witness the calving and booming of the icebergs. We'll also paddle through iceberg-laden waters, and we’ll be amused by the antics of the many seals hauled out for a rest on the ice. We'll watch huge icebergs calving off the face of the Dawes. We'll hear the glacier rumbling and thundering, and we'll safely watch as waves surge down the shoreline of the fjord. We’ll spend time floating among the ice, and taking in the glacier against a backdrop of jagged peaks. Like the explorers here before us, the majesty and awe of this ice-carved land has etched itself into our experience.
In the early evening, we'll make our way to the seldom-visited anchorage of North Dawes Cove. We may hike up a newly-formed valley on the far side of the fjord, just recently uncovered by the receding North Dawes Glacier. As we reach the mouth of North Dawes Glacier, we see an icy glacial outwash river which divides a meadow and scree slope with a big waterfall. Black bears commonly come down to the meadow to graze. We'll take in the magnificent vistas, and listen for the mournful howls of wolves.
Ultimate Sailing Expedition
Day 5: Today our destination is The Brothers, a group of small islands near the southern coast of Admiralty Island. The morning light is beautiful, as we dodge icebergs, and wind our way down the fjord. The scenery changes dramatically, as we leave behind the world of granite cliffs of Ford’s Terror Wilderness. Rushing tidal currents and whirlpools prevent us from crossing Wood Spit until slack water.
Throughout the day, we'll watch for whales, sea lions, dall porpoises, orcas, and sea birds. We'll be sailing or cruising to Admiralty Island, known for its dense bear population.
We’ll pause to view a colony of steller sea lions, crowded on the rocks of tiny Sail Island. The males vie noisily for dominance over their harems. As we continue cruising, we’ll watch for more sea lions, harbor seals, porpoise, orca, and sea birds. Along the way we'll continue to observe the migratory patterns of humpback whales. Arriving at The Brothers, we anchor in an idyllic cove between two small islands, where the sounds of breathing whales, grunting steller sea lions, and screeching eagles drift in. During an extra-low tide at The Brothers, various anemones gleam brilliantly. Eventually we have to depart, but first we'll pause for a close-up look at another colony of steller sea lions, crowded on the rocks of one of the outer islands that comprise The Brothers.
This evening we anchor in a serene setting in Pybus Bay, where the sounds of nature drift in, across the evening calm. Beautiful, remote and protected from outer waters, Pybus Bay is pristine wilderness. Brown bears are abundant along the grassy beaches in spring, and near salmon streams in summer. In the late 1800's, a very successful salmon cannery operation was located in Pybus Bay. Evidence of the canning operation still remains. Mother Nature has long since reclaimed the old buildings, but much of the impressive machinery still lies quietly in place, eliciting countless untold stories from the ghosts of the past.
Watching the shoreline and estuaries in the evening light, we often catch a glimpse of brown bears, fishing in the salmon-filled streams and rivers. With the largest concentration of nesting bald eagles in the world, Admiralty Island offers many chances to also see birds most commonly found in the fringe habitats between the forest and muskegs or meadows, and along the shores. Popular sightings include Canadian geese, trumpeter swans, cormorants and blue herons.
Humpback Whale
Day 6: After breakfast this morning, we'll continue our journey. We’ll cruise around the Five Finger Lighthouse, which lights the waterways of Frederick Sound and Stephens Passage. Located on a small island in the midst of other islands known as the Five Finger Islands, the lighthouse has been an active navigational aid since 1902. Standing on the site of the first U.S. lighthouse built in Alaska, the present Five Finger Light Station was completed in 1935, only two years after the original lighthouse completely burnt to the ground. Funding was made possible by monies allocated by Public Works under the Roosevelt administration during the “Great Depression”. The Art Deco design of the new lighthouse is typical of a 1930’s lighthouse architectural style apparently unique to Alaska. The original 1902 boathouse and carpenter’s shed survived the fire, and are reminiscent of classical lighthouse out buildings. They are wooden structures painted white with red shingled roofs.
As we cruise through Frederick Sound, we’ll begin looking for pods of humpback whales, this time exhibiting a number of varied feeding behaviors. Some practice bubble-net feeding, swimming in circles while blowing bubbles to form a curtain to corral in a mass of tiny fish. Others practice lunge feeding, breaking the surface at a 45-degree angle, mouth fully open, and throat cavities expanded like an accordion to collect all the fish scooped up by the lunging maneuver.
Scenic Red Bluff Bay, carved within Baranof Island, is where we'll spend the evening. As we cross chatham Strait and enter the bay, dramatic waterfalls streak down from the walls of the fjord. We'll pass close to a lovely waterfall that cascades down the high rock wall that bounds this narrow inlet.
We’ll also scan for bears along the shore of Baranof Island. Low tide beckons them to search for food in the intertidal zone, toward the large meadow at the head of the bay.
Humpback Whale
Day 7: We set sail this morning for Baranof Warm Springs Bay, where a natural hot spring is situated next to a rushing waterfall. Baranof Hot Springs is the outlet of Baranof Lake and the Baranof River. There are natural outdoor hot pools, and a public bath house which features three separate tubs and communal hot springs pools. A boardwalk takes us through the flora and fauna to picturesque Baranof Lake.
We continue sailing north up Chatham Strait, for an optional excursion into Freshwater Bay. Groups of Dall's porpoise frequently run with us for half an hour, racing back and forth across our bow. We’re heading up the coast of Chichagof Island, in search of humpback whales. But these are not just any humpback whales -- they are a special group. Soon, in quick succession, we see the flukes of several whales in a tight group, coordinated in time and space. Something special is going on here. Suddenly an entire group bursts onto the surface, all together, huge mouths agape. This group of whales is engaged in cooperative bubble-net feeding. This behavior is used by select groups of humpback whales that feed on small schooling fish like herring or sand lance. The whales descend in unison, find a school of fish, and then swim around the fish releasing a spiral net of bubbles. The fish are forced into an ever-tighter school. One of the whales then gives a vocal signal and, as one, the whales rise through the bubble net, each whale engulfing a huge mouthful of water. Over and over the process is repeated. It is an amazing display of behavior.
Sitkoh Bay, on the southern coast of Chichagof Island, is where the Tlingit people relocated after the Russians returned to reclaim Sitka in 1804. The bay has been used more recently to reap various resources of the Tongass National Forest, including its trees and salmon. A cannery existed here until 1974. Today we enjoy the forest and sea resources by paddling kayaks in the bay, looking at intertidal critters. Berries, banana slugs and fungi of many colors are in abundance in the fores. With time and isolation on the myriad islands of the Alexander Archipelago, many species have become genetically distinct from their mainland relatives.
Cruising north up Chatham Strait, we head into Tenakee Inlet (Chichagof Island). More Dall’s porpoises, bald eagles, many jellyfish and a couple of Steller sea lions are often spotted. n summer a lcal stream is often filled with salmon and hungry bears. Sea milkwort, paintbrush, dwarf dogwood, western coralroot, and pinesap paint vibrant colors across the meadows. New species of wildflowers open daily, including a bank of buttercups interspersed with dwarf dogwood, shooting stars and Alaska violets.
Later, we set course for Funter Bay on northern Admiralty Island. Not only is the island known for its dense brown bear population, but it was also the site of fish cannery and mining operations during the early part of the last century. Relics of a bygone era were strewn about the tidal area and in the forest: steam engines, railway tracks and even fish transfer barges deep in the modern forest lay in testament to the power of nature to overcome the untended antics of humans. Today, the bay is probably home to more bears than people, with its thirty homesteads. Our evening on board is spent at a quiet anchorage, dining on fresh king salmon.
Brown Bear
Day 8: It won’t take long before we’ll need our cameras and binoculars – off the coast of Admiralty Island, humpback whales often catch herring and other small fish using a technique called bubble-net feeding. Unique to humpbacks, bubble-net feeding requires a group of whales to work cooperatively. The process begins when a school of small fish is located. Humpback whales only eat tiny fish and krill, which are abundant in Alaska's waters. The group then gathers below the school of fish, and begins releasing bubbles to confuse the fish, and bunch them together. The cylindrical wall of bubbles they create acts like a net, which fish are reluctant to swim through. This ring of bubbles soon appears on the surface of the water. The entire group then suddenly surges upward through the bubble net, mouths agape – a dozen or more humpback whales all rising to the surface in unison. Each whale collects a huge mouthful of water, and then expels it, straining the fish through its baleen. Often the group will display this feeding behavior over and over again.
Admiralty Island is a vast wilderness, preserved as a National Monument. The northern tip of the island, called the Mansfield Peninsula, is leased to the non-profit Alaska Lighthouse Association. It is a magnificent reserve which includes beaches, old growth forest, muskeg and fen as well as the historic grounds and structures of the Point Retreat Lighthouse.
Restoration is ongoing, and the area is not normally open to visitors. Point Retreat Lighthouse was first established as a navigational light in 1904. The first Point Retreat Lighthouse was a six-foot-tall hexagonal wooden tower, topped by a hexagonal lantern room. In 1917, Point Retreat was stripped of its personnel and downgraded to a minor light until 1924, when a new combination lighthouse and fog signal was built. The lantern was removed in the 1950's, and a solar powered lens was installed on a post attached to the tower. In 1973 the light was again unmanned and downgraded to a minor lighthouse. In 2003 the lighthouse was added to the National Register of Historic Places.
Southeast Alaska has semi-diurnal tides, meaning that there are two low tides and two high tides, each and every day. When the moon and sun are in alignment, the tidal range is at its greatest vertical difference. The vertical tide range here at Pond Island, our anchorage for the evening, is almost 20 feet! Such a low tide, of course, exposes all sorts of wonderful invertebrates, all of whom must make their living in these incredibly difficult tidal cycles. Perhaps the most beautiful and colorful animals is the sunflower star, the largest and fastest moving sea star in Southeast Alaska. When it really gets going it can cover up to six feet in a single minute! Growing to almost three feet across, its rays break easily and then regenerate. It is so aggressive that even the lethargic red sea cucumber will gallop away when the sunflower star approaches.
Beautiful Sitka
Day 9: After breakfast, a light breeze fills in out of the north, so we raise the main and unfurl the jib to sail quietly into the protected waters of Lynn Canal. Today we conlude our adventure with a cruise around Shelter Island, in Lynn Canal. It won’t take long before we’ll need our cameras and binoculars – off the coast of Admiralty Island, humpback whales often catch herring and other small fish using a technique called bubble-net feeding. Unique to humpbacks, bubble-net feeding requires a group of whales to work cooperatively.
The process begins when a school of small fish is located. Humpback whales only eat tiny fish and krill, which are abundant in Alaska's waters. The group then gathers below the school of fish, and begins releasing bubbles to confuse the fish, and bunch them together. The cylindrical wall of bubbles they create acts like a net, which fish are reluctant to swim through. This ring of bubbles soon appears on the surface of the water. The entire group then suddenly surges upward through the bubble net, mouths agape – a dozen or more humpback whales all rising to the surface in unison. Each whale collects a huge mouthful of water, and then expels it, straining the fish through its baleen. Often the group will display this feeding behavior over and over again.
Throughout the day, we’ll watch for whales, sea lions, dall porpoises, orcas, and sea birds. After arriving at our evening desination (determined by Captain Neil), we’ll stretch our legs on shore. It’s a short distance by skiff or kayak to a nearby rainforest of Sitka spruce trees. Dinner will be aboard the Kirsten Anne.
Kirsten Anne is scheduled to arrive in Auke Bay Harbor around 3 p.m. Participants should have ample time to settle into a hotel in bustling downtown Juneau, or catch an evening flight from Juneau Airport. If you're staying in town, join us at 7:00 p.m. for fantastic dinner at the Twisted Fish Company, on historic Franklin Street in downtown Juneau.
If you need additional information about this trip, please contact us.
